Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek
A short trek to one of Nepal's best dawn views of the Annapurnas
Overview
Poon Hill is the short trek most people in Nepal start with, and for good reason. That photo you've probably seen of an orange sunrise behind the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri was very likely shot from here. The high point is only 3,210 metres, so there's no real altitude to worry about, but the views are out of proportion to the effort.
The route starts at Nayapul, a trailhead village about 90 minutes' drive from Pokhara, and climbs into forest from the first hour. Mossy trees, waterfalls, a few Gurung villages along the way. The early test is the staircase from Tikhedhunga to Ulleri, usually quoted as 3,000 stone steps. It's steep and it doesn't let up. After Ulleri the gradient eases into long traverses through rhododendron forest.
The forest is the other reason people come. In spring, roughly March and April, the rhododendrons are in bloom: crimson, pink and white across the hillsides. It's striking. October and November give you the clearest skies and the sharpest mountain views of the year. December through February is cold, especially the pre-dawn climb, but the trail is quiet and the snow-dusted branches are worth a winter visit if you can handle the chill.
Ghorepani is where you sleep before the sunrise. It's a proper trekking village, Gurung, built of stone houses, with teahouses ranging from basic to fairly comfortable. People here are used to trekkers and the welcome is genuine. After a day's walking, a plate of dal bhat, a bowl of soup and a slice of apple pie go a long way.
The 4 AM alarm is rough. The climb up to the viewpoint is steep, dark and cold, headlamp on the whole way. Then the first light hits Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Machhapuchhre, Dhaulagiri and the rest of the range at once, and you forget about the early start. It lives up to the photos, which is not something you can say about every view.
If this is your first trek in Nepal, or you're back for something quick, or you're walking with older kids, Poon Hill is hard to beat as a starting point. No special permits, no mandatory guide, no dangerous altitude. Good mountains, good forest, and a sunrise that earns the hype.
Day by Day Itinerary
An early taxi or tourist bus from Pokhara lakeside runs along the Annapurna Highway to Nayapul (1,010m), about 1.5 hours. The trek starts right from Nayapul's small bazaar, following the Modi Khola upstream on a broad, well-marked trail. The first stretch to Birethanti is flat and easy, a warm-up past riverside teahouses, mani walls and Gurung homesteads. The trail then starts to climb, crossing a few wooden bridges before reaching Tikhedhunga (1,540m). It's a good lunch stop and a fine place to overnight if you started late or are walking with younger children. If you've got the time and the legs, keep going. The staircase from Tikhedhunga to Ulleri begins here: roughly 3,000 stone steps, 500 vertical metres, about 1.5 hours. It's steep and it's hard work, but the setting is good. At the top, Ulleri (2,073m) is a cluster of slate-roofed stone houses with long views down the valley.
Permits & Cost Breakdown
Required Permits
| Item | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) | $30 USD | Everyone entering the Annapurna Conservation Area needs this. Get it at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Pokhara or Kathmandu. The ACAP desk at the Pokhara office is quick. Bring passport-sized photos. |
| TIMS Card (Trekkers' Information Management System) | $20 USD | Required for all trekkers in Nepal. Pick it up alongside the ACAP at the Nepal Tourism Board. With an agency, your guide usually handles it. On your own, you'll need to sort it yourself. |
Additional Costs
| Item | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| ACAP + TIMS Permits | $50 USD total | The only permits you need. There's no restricted-area permit for this route. |
| Accommodation | $8–20 USD per night | Ghorepani has the most choice, from basic double rooms at $8 to comfortable ensuite rooms at $20 and up. Tadapani and Tikhedhunga are more basic. Book ahead in October and November. |
| Meals | $15–25 USD per day | Dal bhat is the best value and usually comes with refills. The apple pie in Ghorepani is a bit of a tradition. Prices creep up with altitude. Reckon on $6 to $8 per meal. |
| Pokhara–Nayapul Taxi/Bus | $5–20 USD each way | The local bus is cheapest at $2 to $3. A tourist minibus runs $5 to $8, a private taxi $15 to $20. For an early start, take the taxi. |
| Guide (optional) | $25–40 USD per day | A guide isn't legally required for Poon Hill, and plenty of people walk it on their own with offline maps. A guide does add local knowledge and takes the navigation worry off your plate. Worth it if this is your first trek in Nepal. |
| Porter (optional) | $20–30 USD per day | Not needed if you pack light, under 8kg. That said, the 3,000 steps on Day 1 are a lot easier with just a daypack on your back. Hire a porter if you'd rather pay for the comfort. |
| Miscellaneous (charging, Wi-Fi, tips, snacks) | $30–60 USD total | Most teahouses charge $1 to $2 to charge a device and $2 to $5 for Wi-Fi. A hot shower runs $3 to $5. If you've hired a guide or porter, tip $5 to $10 a day each. |
What to Pack
Tips & Important Information
Get going by 9 AM on Day 1 or the steps will punish you
The 3,000 stone steps from Tikhedhunga to Ulleri are steep and out in the open. In the midday sun they're brutal. Heat, humidity (worst in spring and summer) and steady climbing add up fast. Start walking by 8 or 9 AM at the latest, use Tikhedhunga as a lunch stop rather than an overnight, and do the steps while it's still cool. Coming from Pokhara, book your taxi for a 6:30 AM departure so you reach Nayapul by 8.
Book Ghorepani teahouses ahead in October
October is Nepal's busiest trekking month, and Poon Hill is the most popular short trek in the country. Ghorepani teahouses can be full by mid-afternoon. Turn up after 3 PM in October without a reservation and you may struggle to find a bed. Book through an agency, have your guide call ahead, or WhatsApp the teahouses directly, most of them have smartphones now. It's much less of an issue from November to April.
Carry small Nepali notes
There's a small shop and sometimes a snack stall at the Poon Hill viewpoint, but the trail runs on small cash. Bring a stack of 100 and 500 NPR notes for chai, monastery fees, charging and tips. The last reliable ATM is in Pokhara lakeside. Plenty of teahouses now take cards or digital transfers for the main bill, but small purchases along the way are always cash.
Give Ghandruk some time, most people rush through it
The usual Poon Hill itinerary doesn't leave much time in Ghandruk, which is a shame. This Gurung village is one of the prettier traditional settlements in Nepal, with close-up views of Annapurna South that hold their own against Poon Hill. The Gurung Museum is well worth the small entry fee. Eat lunch on a teahouse terrace with the mountains right above you and walk the lanes before you drop down to Nayapul. Give it at least 2 hours. People who stay the night here rarely regret it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Recommended Gear
We earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Book a Local Guide via GetYourGuide
Connect with experienced, licensed local guides for a safe, enriching trek — browse availability on GetYourGuide.
More Nepal treks
Annapurna · Moderate
Annapurna Base Camp Trek
Ten days into the Annapurna Sanctuary
10 days
Annapurna · Challenging
Annapurna Circuit Trek
A full loop around the Annapurna massif, from jungle to high desert
13 days
Khumbu · Challenging
Everest Base Camp Trek
Walk to the foot of the highest mountain on earth
14 days